Beaded laminated shoe welting



Feb. 26, 1963 F. SHEA 3,078,601

BEADED LAMINATED SHOE WELTING Filed July 28, 1960 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG.3 FIG.4 FIG.5 ,FIG.6

INV EN TOR. Franc/l9 L Shea BY faamelum A T TOQNE Y F. L. SHEA BEADED LAMINATED SHOE WELTING 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed July 28, 1960 FIG.8

FIG.7

ATTOQA/EY 3,078,601 BEADED LAMINATED SHGE WELTING Francis L. Shea, Wollaston, Mass, assignor to Barbour Weltiug Company, Brockton, Mass, a corporation of Massachusetts Filed July 28, 1960, Ser. No. 46,018 4 Claims. (Cl. 36-78) This invention relates to a shoe welting of the type known as a platform shoe welting and to the method of making the same.

The invention has for a principal object to provide a novel and improved shoe welting of the platform type which is particularly adapted for use in the construction of cement type shoes which is characterized by novel and improved structure enabling the decked platform or bead to hug the upper closely and to hold the shape of the shoe during long periods of use.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved method of making platform welting in an eflicient and economical manner. With these general objects in view and such others as may hereinafter appear, the invention consists in the novel and improved platform type shoe'welting and method of making the same.

'In the drawings illustrating the preferred embodiment of the invention:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a grain leather fillet of welt forming material;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view illustrating the steps of cutting the welting preparatory to the formation of the completed welt;

FIG. 3 is a perspective view illustrating the step of folding the welting cut in accordance with FIG. 2;

FIGS. 4 and 5 are perspective views illustrating the formation of the beveled inseam flange and stitching groove, respectively;

P16. 6 is a perspective view illustrating the finished platform welting; and

FIGS. 7 to 11 are perspective views similar to FIGS. 1 to 6 and illustrating the steps followed in producing a modified form of platform welting embodying the present invention.

In general the present invention contemplates a novel and improved shoe welting of the platform type particularly adapted for use in the manufacture of cement type shoes and the method of making the same. The present welting is characterized by structure which enables the deck or bead to closely hug the upper of the shoe and which is arranged to support and hold the shape of the shoe after considerable wear. The present invention further provides an eflicient and highly economical method of making platform type shoe welting.

In the illustrated embodiment of the invention represents a substantially rectangular grain leather fillet about 1" in width and about in thickness having a flesh surface 12 and a grain surface 14. In accordance with the illustrated embodiment of the invention, as shown in FIG. 2, a relatively narrow and deep elongated rectangular strip 16, approximately A" in width is cut out of the flesh surface of the fillet substantially midway between its edges to provide a rectangular groove 18 and a relatively thin hinge portion 20 approximately .035" in thickness at the bottom of the groove. The cutting and removal of the strip 16 provides two relatively thick marginal portions referred to as upper and lower portions 22, 24 which in the assembly of the welting are folded and shaped as hereinafter described to provide a laminated welt structure. An incision is made in the upper flesh surface of the fillet commencing at a point 26 spaced about of an inch from the margin 28 of the groove 18 and is extended downwardly at an angle toward the marginal edge 30, thus forming a beveled or tapered surface 32. The unbeveled upper portion 22 of the fillet is then folded upwardly and then downwardly on the hinge portion 20 andis secured by a suitable adhesive to the beveled surface 32 of lower portion 24. As shown vin FIG. 4 after the upper and lower portions 22, 24 have been folded and connectedtogether an incision is made in the grain surface of the portion 22 commencing at a point 36 spaced inwardly from the marginaljedge 38, of the bead or deck 40 a short distance. The incision is extended downwardly in a slight arc and downwardly and outwardly, as shown, extending through the marginal edge 30, thus forming a deck or bead having a flat top surface, a concave face 42 and a tapered inseam surface 43. As shown in FIG. 5, a stitching groove 44 is cut in the bottom surface of the portion 24, and the surface 45 of the portion 24 adjacent the inseam edge of the welt is tapered by making an incision extending upwardly and outwardly from the groove through the marginal edge of the lower portion 24. As shown, the upper portion 22 of the folded welting provides a platform deck or bead 40 and a tapered inseam surface 43 against which'the upper of the shoe is secured. The lower portion 24 has a beveled upper surface 32 anda bottom surface con- .taining the-stitching groove 44 and upwardly tapered marginal edge portion 45. The .upper corners of the bead ,or

' platform deck may be'charnfered to round the same and,

as shown, the marginal edge 38; of the two-partgbcad or deck is flat and extends downwardly substantially at right angles to the surface of the bead.

The present welting, produced in the manner hereintofore described, provides a grain surfaced marginal edge 38 approximately twice as thick as the thickness of the original fillet 10 and a relatively thick two-part gradually tapered inseam flange against which the shoe upper is supported. The welting may be secured to the upper of the shoe such that the upper fits firmly and closely against the surfaces 42, '43 of the welt and is secured in this position by inseam stitching, not shown, extending upwardly through the stitching groove, the thick portion of the two-part inseam flange and thence through the upper. In this manner the bead or deck is urged firmly against the upper and retained in this position even after long periods of use of the shoe. The outsole of the shoe, not shown, may then be cemented to the bottom surface of the welting strip to complete the shoe.

Referring now to FIGS. 7 to 11 illustrating a modified form of the present platform type shoe welting, represents a grain leather fillet of rectangular shape which may be about 1" in width and .130" in thickness and having a flesh surface and a grain surface 140. In accordance with the modified embodiment of the invention, as shown in FIG. 8, an elongated strip cut out of the flesh surface of the fillet substantially midway between its edges is parallelogram shaped in cross section to provide a groove having side walls arranged at an angle of about 45 to the bottom surface and providing a relatively thin grain surfaced hinged portion 200. The cutting and removal of the strip 160 provides two relatively thick marginal portions referred to as upper and lower portions 220, 240 to be folded and shaped as hereinafter described to provide a laminated welt structure. A triangular strip 260 is cut from the flesh surface of the portion 240, the incision being made from a point 270 and extending downwardly and outwardly to the marginal edge 300, to provide a beveled surface 320. The upper portion 220 is then folded upwardly and then downwardly by virtue of the hinge portion 200 and is secured by a suitable adhesive to the beveled surface 320 of the lower portion 240.

It will be observed that the outer or thicker marginal edge covered by the hinge 200 of the platform welting thus assembled presents an angular surface arranged at about 45 relative to the bottom surface of the assembled welting. While in this condition theouter edge may be provided with serrations 190 by means of a wheeling tool, and thereafter a strip 360 may be removed from the grain surfaced upper portion 220 to provide a bead 370, 'a con- .cave portion 380 and a tapered inseam surface 430. A stitching groove 440 may be provided in the bottom surface ofthe welting. the present 'platformwelting is to mold the elongated welting strip to assume the shape shown in FIG. 11.

The final step in the production of While the present shoe welting has been illustrated and described as being produced from a grain leather fillet other forms of welt forming material may be used, and

the completed welting illustrated in FIGS. 6 and 11 may portion along one marginal edge and providing a two-part tapered inseam :fiange extending to the other marginal edge, said two-part flange comprising upper and lower components connected by said hinge portion, the adjacent edgesof said components being folded'within and secured to the inner face of saidhinge portion and providing an outer marginal edge twice the thickness of said fillet, said upper component being flat for a short distance and then provided with a concave portion forming an upstanding'be'ad, and a downwardly beveled portion coextensive with said concave portion,-said lower component having a downwardly beveled top surface and-secured tosaid; upper componentto provide said two-part tapered inseam flange, said relatively thin hinge portion extending parallel to said outer marginal edge and terminating a relatively short distance from the outer surfaces of said upper and lower components respectively.

2. A shoe welting as defined in claim 1 wherein the bottom surface of said lower component is flat for a short distance and is then beveled upwardly.

3. A shoe welting as defined in claim 1 wherein the outer marginal edge is aranged at right angles to the bottom surface of. the welting.

4. A shoe welting as defined in claim 1 wherein the outer marginal edge is aranged at an angle of less than ninety degrees to the bottom surface of the Welting.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 133,687 Walker Dec. 3, 1872 641,877 Merriam -2 Jan. 23, 1900 747,642 Rollins Dec. 22, 1903 1,169,085 Davis Jan. 18, 1916 1,828,728 Arnold et al Oct. 27, 1931 2,011,961 Vizard Aug. 20, 1935 2,207,068 Plummer July 9, 1940 2,299,516 Vizard Oct. 20, 1942 2,700,231 Vizard Ian. 25, 1955 32,754,600 Vizard July 17, 1956 2,789,376 Vizard Apr..23, 1957 2,795,869 Vizard June 18, 1957 2,944,269 Greene July 12, 1960 2,986,754 Greene June 6, 1961 

1. A BEADED LAMINATED SHOE WELTING COMPRISING A FILLET CUT AND FOLDED TO PROVIDE A RELATIVELY THIN ELONGATED HINGE PORTION ALONG ONE MARGINAL EDGE AND PROVIDING A TWO-PART TAPERED INSEAM FLANGE EXTENDING TO THE OTHER MARGINAL EDGE, SAID TWO-PART FLANGE COMPRISING UPPER AND LOWER COMPONENTS CONNECTED BY SAID HINGE PORTION, THE ADJACENT EDGES OF SAID COMPONENTS BEING FOLDED WITHIN AND SECURED TO THE INNER FACE OF SAID HINGE PORTION AND PROVIDING AN OUTER MARGINAL EDGE TWICE THE THICKNESS OF SAID FILLET, SAID UPPER COMPONENT BEING FLAT FOR A SHORT DISTANCE AND THEN PROVIDED WITH A CONCAVE PORTION FORMING AN 